The Science · Ingredient Education

Retinol, retinal & retinoids — the truth.

CULT51 London · Why we chose a different path

Retinol and retinal are forms of Vitamin A, widely recognised for their anti-ageing and skin-improving benefits. Retinoids, the broader category, include both retinol and retinal among other compounds. Here's what each of them actually is — and why we deliberately chose not to use any of them.

Retinol

Retinol is a type of retinoid commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products. It works by boosting collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and improving skin texture and tone.

Retinal

Retinal, or retinaldehyde, is another derivative of Vitamin A. It is slightly more potent than retinol and offers similar benefits, including enhancing skin cell turnover and improving the appearance of blemishes and hyperpigmentation.

Retinoids

Retinoids encompass all derivatives of Vitamin A, including prescription-strength options like tretinoin. They are generally more potent than over-the-counter retinol and retinal.

All of them have an effect on skin ageing, controlling breakouts and improving skin texture — but they also carry side effects that many people aren't warned about.

The side effects brands don't talk about

Common side effects include retinoid dermatitis — a condition involving redness, sensitivity, dryness and flaking. It can lead to increased fragility of the skin, presenting as irritation, inflammation and heightened sensitivity to sun exposure. If you use these ingredients as part of your skincare routine, it's essential to wear an SPF30 or higher daily.

You also have to avoid using them alongside other potentially irritating ingredients such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.

Recent regulations

As of August 2022, new regulations limit the maximum concentration of retinol in skincare products: 0.3% for face products and 0.05% for body products. This aims to minimise the risk of overexposure to Vitamin A, which can cause health issues such as liver damage.

Separately, California bill AB 2491 would ban the sale of over-the-counter skincare or cosmetic products to children under 13 that are advertised to address skin ageing — including products containing Vitamin A and its derivatives (retinoids and retinol), as well as alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, ascorbic acid or citric acid.

Our alternative

There are many alternatives to retinol and retinal, and that's why at CULT51 we only use ingredients that are kind to the skin barrier — ones that can structurally and functionally change the skin and lead to a healthier, more hydrated, firmer complexion. We believe in a combination of active ingredients, used at the optimum concentration, backed by clinical results that prove they work.